• Last Day in Roma


    Easter Monday was a day of bliss with all the P words… a refreshing bottle (or two) of Peroni beer, Pistachio ice cream, Pescha (peach) jam, and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese… thankfully not all at once!

    Firstly, after a leisurely, danish-fuelled breakfast, I checked out of the humble B&B. I’d spent 2 nights at Hotel Zara — a 3 star B&B located on Via delle Quattro Fontane — and I’d thoroughly enjoyed my temporary abode, particularly the sun soaked balcony.

    With a belly contently full of cappuccino and peach croissants, I wandered to Vatican City, which was approximately a 50 minute walk and included a stroll over the Cavour bridge, crossing the river Tiber.

    I passed many stools selling books, wooden crafts and souvenirs, not to mention a medieval-looking castle to my right; Castel Sant’Angelo, before spotting the beautiful St. Peter’s Basilica and world famous dome, otherwise known as the Sistine chapel.

    Cavour Bridge
    The Vatican

    I made my way up Via della Conciliazione and as I got closer, I couldn’t help but take photographs. I walked around St. Peter’s Basilica in awe but decided not to queue to enter (which is free) as being a religious holiday meant the Sistine chapel was closed. Easter is a busy time in Rome and the previous day has seen many thousands of visitors from all over the world come to greet Pope Francis as he spoke to the masses.

    Today, all that was left from yesterday’s swarms were the security barriers and ample amounts of seating. I hadn’t much fancied being squished by the hordes so I spent my day at the Roman Forum visiting Palentine Hill and the Colosseum – a fantastic day (I’ll write about this in my next post). With the Sistine chapel being closed, I decided the Basilica experience would be better left to my next visit when I hope to explore both the Basilica and Sistine Chapel in one go.

    I think I forgot to mention earlier, today was the hottest day of my trip by far, a whopping 28 degrees, certainly not bad for April. So, instead of queuing up, I noticed a cute ice cream van parked up, and upon approach, I saw they sold beer. My eyes lit up, “ooh” I thought, “a Peroni in the sunshine… now we’re talking!” So, I soaked up the sunshine on a bench facing the basilica with my bottle of Peroni, feeling a tad rebellious.

    St. Peter's Basilica
    Spanish Steps

    All refreshed, and somewhat dazed by the sun, I waddled to the next street along, I wanted to explore the Vatican City after all. It was during my exploration that I found a very cute restaurant where the local Italian folk were dining al fresco and I thought, “hmm why not?” My chance to recreate that Julia Roberts moment in ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ where she dines solo in Rome, and delves into a plate of spaghetti without a care in the world. Having got half way through my second Peroni, I was certainly beginning to care a lot less.

    I was seated al fresco, just like the locals, and did what I do best… people watched. I watched as a lady restauranteur opposite haggled with passers by to dine in her cafe “pizza, pasta, lasagne” she said to anyone who passed. Then there were the cyclists who stopped for a chat with friends in passing, and then, just a few tables up from me, a son, helping his dad up out of his seat having just finished a meal together, quite an emotional sight (I blame the Peroni). For starters I had the classic rustic bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar dip, followed by the ricotta and spinach ravioli with mozzarella in a tomato sauce from the specials menu. It was belissimo!

    After my little feast, I made my way out of the Vatican City to the Piazza. A quick stop in H&M (Italian H&Ms have a much better selection of clothes I find), then I continued to the Spanish steps to sunbathe. It was still so hot! I cooled down with a pistachio ice cream in a turquoise-themed ice cream parlour en route back to the B&B (to collect my luggage).

    On my back back, I stumbled across one of many souvenir shops and bought some Rome themed fridge magnets as gifts (it’s just one of those things I’ve got into the habit of doing), then I noticed another great sunbathing stop at the Palazzo Barberini gallery. Outside was a large grassy garden with a neat stone path and many sun worshippers. I found a sunny spot under a large pine tree and stretched out, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. “What a beautiful day” I thought, “a perfect day and my last day in Roma”.

  • Bello Bellagio


    Small, serene and elegantly honed, the village of Bellagio is set in the scenic surroundings of Lake Como, in northern Italy’s Lombardy region, and bustles with life and energy.

    From the airport at Bergamo, a hair-raising 90-minute drive to Bellagio meant plummeting coastlines but terrific views; tranquil blue waters, mountainous terrain and the odd fast car coming the other way, pushing me dangerously close to the edge.

    I arrived safely at the Villa Melzi apartments. The neoclassical Villa Melzi with its waterside gardens were discovered by Francesco Melzi d’Eril, once Vice President of the Italian Republic under Napoleon, in 1810, and became his residence at the end of his political career.

    Villa Melzi
    Villa Melzi grounds

    Maria, the hotel owner, greeted me warmly before escorting me to ‘Sophia’, the authentically styled apartment I would be staying in for 3 nights. Inside stood prominent dark wood furnishings and decadent accessories including plush velvet cushions embroidered with gold thread and bronze pillar candle sticks, intrinsic to their surroundings.

    Ahead of the creaky shutters, stood front row seats to Lake Como. Shimmering in the sunlight, the view took my breath away… here lay Lake Como in all its glory.

    I walked through the graceful gardens of Villa Melzi. Running alongside the lapping waters of Lake Como lie lush green grass, perfectly preened trees lining the neat walkways and steep cobbled steps leading to ornate stone benches, perfect for sitting and admiring the lake’s famous panorama.

    Villa Melzi gardens
    Tranquil waters

    The Villa Melzi apartments sit just outside the gardens and are only a romantic 10-minute stroll through the gardens into picture-postcard perfect Bellagio.

    I walked for hours exploring the stylish promenade, amazed by the pastel-tinged facades and steep cobbled alleys. I sampled the gloriously sweet Sicilian Cannoli from Bar Pasticceria Rossi, one of the oldest cafés in Bellagio, and tasted the rich truffle pasta from waterfront restaurant Terrazzo Metropole. I even witnessed paparazzi trying to catch a glimpse of Italy’s rich and famous.

    stone
    Cannoli

    A trip on Bellagio’s trackless train presented the perfect opportunity to view the century-old buildings and picturesque vineyards surrounding the village. A local boat trip also allowed me to appreciate the beauty of Bellagio from a far, where it sat peacefully amongst the snow-capped mountains and serene waters of Lake Como.

    I hope one day to return, but for now I feel lucky to have discovered bello Bellagio and all that it has to offer. For those of you seeking peace and solitude, I cannot think of a better location.